Life in Mexico, by Frances Calderon de la Barca

Table of Contents

Introduction

Preface

Letter the First

Departure of the Norma — Last look of New York Bay — Fellow-passengers — Contrary Winds — Deceitful Appearances — Sunset in Southern Latitudes — Seas passed over by Columbus — Varied Occupations on Shipboard — Berry Islands — Bahama Banks — Evening in a Tropical Sea — L. E. L. — Pan of Matanzas — Morro Castle — Bay of Havana — Arrival — Handsome House in Havana — Sights and Sounds.

Letter the Second

Havana Aristocracy — “Lucia de Lammermoor” — La Rossi and Montresor — Brig-of-war — Countess de V——a — Dinner at H——a’s — Southerly Winds — View from the Balcony — Quinta of Count V——a — San Cristobal — Mass at San Felipe — Erard Harp — Dinner at General M——o’s — A Dessert at Havana — Queen of Spain’s Birthday — Dinner at the Yntendencia — La Pantanelli — Theatre of Tacon — Railroad — Cure by Lightning — Shops — Ball at the Countess F——a’s — Last Visit — Souvenirs.

Letter the Third

Departure in the Jason — Spanish Captain and Officers — Life on board a Man-of-War — “Balances” — Fishing — “Le Petit Tambour” — Cocoa-nuts — A Norte — Spanish Proverb — Peak of Orizava — Theory and Practice — Norte Chocolatero — Contrary Winds — Chain of Mountains — Goleta.

Letter the Fourth

Distant View of Vera Cruz — Pilots — Boat from the City — Mutual Salutes — Approach to Vera Cruz — Crowd on the Wharf — House of Dionisio V——o — Guard of Honour — German Piano — Supper — Madonna — Aspect of the City — Sopilotes — Deliberations — General Guadalupe Victoria — Two-headed Eagle — Dilapidated Saint — Harp — Theatre — Donna Inocencia Martinez — Invitation from General Santa Anna.

Letter the Fifth

Departure from Vera Cruz — Sandhills — Oriental Scene — Manga de Clavo — General Santa Anna — Breakfast — Escort and Diligence — Santa Fe — Puente National — Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward — Country in December — Don Miguel — First Impressions — Fruit — Plan del Rio — German Musicians — Sleeping Captain — Approach to Jalapa — Appearance of the City — Cofre de Perote–Flowers — House and Rock — Last View of Jalapa — Change of Scenery — San Miguel de los Soldados — Perote — Striking Scene before Daybreak — Non-arrival of Escort — Yankee Coachman — Dispute — Departure — Company of Lancers — Alcalde — Breakfast at La Ventilla — Pulque — Double Escort — Crosses — Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper — Ojo de Agua — Arrival at Puebla — Dress of the Peasants — Christmas-eve — Inn — “Nacimento.”

Letter the Sixth

Departure from Puebla — Chirimoyas — Rio Frio — Indian Game — Black Forest — Valley of Mexico — Recollections of Tenochtitlan — Mexican Officer — Reception — Scenery — Variety of Dresses — Cheers — Storm of Rain — Entry to Mexico — Buenavista — House by Daylight — Sights from the Windows — Visits — Mexican Etiquette — Countess C——a — Flowers in December — Serenade — Patriotic Hymn.

Letter the Seventh

Debut in Mexico — Cathedral — Temple of the Aztecs — Congregation — Stone of Sacrifices — Palace — Importunate Léperos — Visit to the President — Countess C——a — Street-cries — Tortilleras — Sartor Resartus.

Letter the Eighth

Ball in Preparation — Agreeable Family — Fine Voices — Theatre — Smoking — Castle of Chapultepec — Viceroy Galvez — Montezuma’s Cypress — Vice–Queen — Valley of Mexico — New Year’s Day — Opening of Congress — Visits from the Diplomatic Corps — Poblana Dress — “Function extraordinaria” — Theatre — Visit to the Cathedral of Guadalupe — Divine Painting — Bishop–Beggars — Mosquitoes’ Eggs.

Letter the Ninth

Visits from Spaniards — Visit from the President — Disquisition — Poblana Dress — Bernardo the Matador — Bull-fight extraordinary — Plaza de Toros — Fireworks — Portrait of C——n — Fancy Ball — Dress — Costume of the Patronesses — Beauty in Mexico — Doctor’s Visit — Cards of faire part — Marquesa de San Roman — Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony — Attempt at Robbery — Murder of a Consul — La Guera Rodriguez — Dr. Plan — M. de Humboldt — Anecdote — Former Customs.

Letter the Tenth

San Fernando — House of Perez de Galvez — A Removal — Size of the Houses — Old Monastery — View by Sunset — Evening Visits — Mexican Etiquette — A Night-view from the Azotea — Tacubaya — Magueys — Making of Pulque — Organos and Nopal — Environs of Mexico — Miracle — Hacienda — View from the Countess C——a’s House — Arzobispado — Anecdote — Comparative View of Beauty — Indians Rancheritas — Mexican Cordiality — Masses for the Dead — San Augustin — Form of Invitation — Death of a Senator — A Mistake.

Letter the Eleventh

Calle de Tacuba — The Leap of Alvarado — The “Noche Triste” — Sale of a Curate’s Goods — Padre Leon — Leprosy — Pictures — The Annunciation — The Alameda — Paseo de Bucarelli — The Viga — Indians in Canoes — A Murder — A Country Fête — Visit to the Colegio Vizcaino — The Jota Arragonesa — Old Soldiers.

Letter the Twelfth

The Viga during the Carnival — Variety of Equipages — The Millionaires — The Monks — Masked Ball — An Alarming Sight — Medical Students — Dinner at the Prussian Minister’s — Rides on Horseback — Indian Love of Flowers — Santa Anita — The Chinampas — Their Origin — Indians in Canoes — Song of “El Palomo” — Fighting — The Great Lakes — The Drain of Huehuetoca — The great Market of Tlatelolco.

Letter the Thirteenth

Convent of San Joaquin — Mexico in the Morning — Tacuba — Carmelite Prior — Convent Garden — Hacienda of Los Morales — El Olivar — A Huacamaya — Humming-birds — Correspondence — Expected Consecration — Visit to the Mineria — Botanic Garden — Arbol de las Manilas — The Museum — Equestrian Statue — Academy of Painting and Sculpture — Disappointment.

Letter the Fourteenth

Palm Sunday — Holy Thursday — Variety of Costumes — San Francisco — Santo Domingo — Santa Teresa — Nuns — Stone Bust — The Academy — Religious Procession — Pilgrimage to the Churches — Santa Clara — Nun’s Voice — Orange-trees and Rose-bushes — The Cathedral Illuminated — Our Saviour in Chains — Good Friday — The great Square towards Evening — Dresses of Men, Women, and Children — Approach of the Host — Judas — Great Procession — Miserere — The Square by Moonlight — A Lonely Walk — Sábado de Gloria — Ball in Contemplation — Weekly Soirées — Embroidered Muslins — A Tertulia at Home.

Letter the Fifteenth

Letter from the Archbishop–Visit to the “Encarnacian” — Reception — Description — The Novices — Convent-supper — Picturesque Scene — Sonata on the Organ — Attempt at Robbery — Alarms of the Household — Visit to San Agustin — Anonymous Letter — The Virgin de los Remedios — Visit to the Chapel — The Padre — The Image — Anecdote of the large Pearl-A Mine.

Letter the Sixteenth

Mexico in May — Leave Mexico for Santiago — Coach of Charles X— Mexican Travelling — General Aspect of the Country — Village of Santa Clara — Robbers’ House — Temples of the Sun and Moon — San Juan — Mexican Posada — School-house — Skulls — Hard Fare — Travelling Dress — Sopayuca — Military Administrador — Santiago — Matadors and Picadors — Evenings in the Country-Dances — Mexican Songs — Cempoala — Plaza de Toros — Skill of the Horsemen — Omatusco — Accident — Tulansingo — Beautiful Garden — Mexican Dishes — Fruits — Horses — Games of Forfeits — Ranchera’s Dress — Young Girls and their Admirers — Verses — Knowledge of Simple Medicine — Indian Baths — Hidden Treasures — Anecdote.

Letter the Seventeenth

Arrival at Tepenacasco — Lake with Wild-duck — Ruined Hacienda — Sunset on the Plains — Troop of Asses — Ride by Moonlight — Leave Tepenacasco — San Miguel — Description — Thunderstorm — Guasco — Journey to Real del Monte — English Road — Scenery — Village of Real — Count de Regla — Director’s House — English Breakfast — Visit to the Mines — The Cascade — The Storm — Loneliness — A Journey in Storm and Darkness — Return to Tepenacasco — Journey to Sopayuca — Narrow Escape — Famous Bull — Return to Mexico.

Letter the Eighteenth

English Ball — Dresses — Diamonds — Mineria — Arrival of the Pope’s Bull — Consecration of the Archbishop — Foreign Ministers — Splendour of the Cathedral — Description of the Ceremony.

Letter the Nineteenth

Mexican Servants — Anecdotes — Remedies — An unsafe Porter — Galopinas — The Reboso — The Sarape — Women Cooks — Foreign Servants — Characteristics of Mexican Servants — Servants’ Wages — Nun of the Santa Teresa — Motives for taking the Veil.

Letter the Twentieth

The Convent Entry — Díalogue — A Chair in Church — Arrival of the Nun — Dress — José María — Crowd — Withdrawal of the Black Curtain — The Taking of the Veil — The Sermon — A Dead Body — Another Victim — Convent of the Encarnación — Attempt at a Hymn — Invitation — Morning Visit — The Nun and her Mother — Banquet — Taking Leave — Ceremony of the Veil-taking — A Beautiful Victim — The Last Look — Presentation to the Bishop — Reflections — Verses.

Letter the Twenty-First

San Agustin — The Gambling Fête — The Beauties of the Village — The Road from Mexico — Entry to San Agustin — The Gambling Houses — San Antonio — The Pedregal — Last Day of the Fête — The Cock-pit — The Boxes — The Cock-fight — Decorum — Comparisons — Dinner — Ball at Calvario — House of General Moran — View of the Gambling-tables — The Advocate — Ball at the Plaza de Gallos — Return to Mexico — Reflections — Conversation between two Ministers.

Letter the Twenty-Second

Countess C——a — Gutierrez Estrada — Dinner at General Moran’s — Dowager Marquesa — Fête at San Antonio — Approach of the Rainy Season — Diamonds and Plate — Great Ball — Night Travelling — Severe Storm — Chapter of Accidents — Corpus Christi — Poblana Dress — Book-club — Ball — Humming-bird — Franciscan Friar — Missions to Old and New California — Zeal and Endurance of the Missionaries — Present Condition — Convent Gardener.

Letter the Twenty-Third

The President — Yturbide — Visit from the Archbishop — Señor Canedo — General Almonte — Señor Cuevas — Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico — Of Señor Posada — His Life — Mexican Charity — Wax Figures — Anecdote — Valuable Present — Education — Comparison — Schools — Opportunities — Natural Talent — Annual — Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor — Families of the Old School — Morals — Indulgence — Manners — Love of Country — Colleges.

Letter the Twenty-Fourth

Revolution in Mexico — Gomez Farias and General Urrea — The Federalists — The President Imprisoned — Firing — Cannon — First News — Escape — Proclamation of the Government — Cannonading — Count C——a — Houses deserted — Countess del V——e — Proclamation of the Federalists — Circular of the Federalists — Scarcity of Provisions — Bursting of a Shell — Refugees — Dr. Plan — Young Lady Shot — Gomez Farias — Rumours — Address of Gomez Farias — Balls and Bullets — Visit from the ——— Minister — Arrival of Monsieur de ——— Expected Attack — Skirmish — Appearance of the Street — San Cosme — General ——— The Count de B——— More Rumours — Suspense — Cannonading — Government Bulletin — Plan of the Rebels defeated — Proclamation of the President — Of General Valencia — Maternal Affection — Fresh Reports — Families leaving the City — Letter from Santa Anna — Bustamante’s Letter when Imprisoned — Propositions — Refusal — Tacubaya — Archbishop — Fresh Proposals — Refusal — Second Letter from Santa Anna — Government Bulletin — Proclamations — An awkward Mistake–The Archbishop visits the President — Conclusion of the Revolution — Government Newspapers — Circulars.

Letter the Twenty-Fifth

Plan of the Federalists — Letter from Farias — Signing of Articles — Dispersion of the “Pronunciados” — Conditions — Orders of General Valencia — Of the Governor — Address of General Valencia — Departure of our Guests — The Cosmopolite — State of the Palace and Streets — Bulletin of the Firing — Interior of Houses — Escape of Families — Conduct of the Troops — Countess del V——e — Santa Anna — Congress — Anecdote — Discussion in Congress — Leprosy.

Letter the Twenty-Sixth

Visitors — Virgen de los Remedios — Encarnación — Fears of the Nuns — Santa Teresa — Rainy Season — Amusing Scene — “Esta a la Disposocicion de V.” — Mexican Sincerity — Texian Vessels — Fine Hair — Schoolmistress — Climate — Its Effects — Nerves — Tours de Force — Anniversary — Speech — Paseo — San Angelo--Tacubaya — Army of “The Three Guarantees” — Plan of Yguala — A Murder — Indian Politeness — Drunkeness — Señor Canedo — Revolutions in Mexico — The Penon — The Baths — General —— Situation and View — Indian Family — Of the Boiling Springs — Capabilities — Solitude — Chapultepec — The Desagravios — Penitence at San Francisco — Discipline of the Men — Discourse of the Monk — Darkness and Horrors — Salmagundi.

Letter the Twenty-Seventh

Fête-day — Friendly Hint — Precautions — General Tranquillity — President in San Agustin — Revisit Museum — Ancient Manuscripts — Sculpture — Bronze Bust, etc. — Freshness after Rain — Ball at the French Minister’s — Pamphlet — Gutierrez Estrada — His Character — Concealment — Mexicalsingo — Minister of the Treasury — Archbishop’s Permission — Paintings — Mexican Painters — Santa Teresa — Description of the Interior — The Penitences — Tortures — Disciplines, etc. — Supper — Profane Ballads — Monasteries — San Francisco — Padre Prior — Soldiers and Friars.

Letter the Twenty-Eighth

Día de Muertos — Leave Mexico — Herraderos — San Cristobal — Tunas — Plaza de Toros — Throwing the Laso — Accidents — Rustic Breakfast — Country Fare — Baked Meat — Indian Market — Buried Bull — Mountain — Solitary HaciendaReyes — Mules marked — Return — Queen of Spain’s Birthday — Diplomatic Dinner.

Letter the Twenty-Ninth

Virgin of Cavadonga — Santo Domingo — Decorations and Music — Daguerreotype — Weekly Soirées — An Arrival — An Earthquake — Honourable Mr. ——— Broken Furniture — días — Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe — Party of the DesiertoItzcuintepotzotli — Inn of Guajimaclo — Ruined Convent — Its Origin — Dejéuné à la Fourchette — Splendid Scenery — Vow to the Virgin — Musical Mass — Tacuba — Ride with the Prior.

Letter the Thirtieth

Christmas-day — Kalends and Mass — Amateur Performances — Solo — Posadas — Wandering of the Holy Family — Nacimiento — Crowded Party — French Cooks — Mexican Cook — State of Household — New Year’s Day — Mass — Dirtiness of the Churches, etc. — Comparisons — Private Chapels — English Club — Preparations for Journey.

Letter the Thirty-First

Leave Mexico — Cuernavaca — Tierra CalienteAtlacamulco — Orange Groves — Sugar-cane — Annual Produce — Will of Cortes — Description — Coffee Plantation — Scorpions — List of Venemous Reptiles — Acapansingo — Doubts and Difficulties — A Decision.

Letter the Thirty-Second

Leave Atlacamulco — Assemble by Starlight — Balmy Atmosphere — Flowers and Trees of the Tropics — The Formidable BarrancasBreakfast under the Trees — Force of the Sun — Meacatlan — Hospitality — Profitable Estate — Leave Meacatlan — Beautiful Village — Musical Bells — Ride by Moonlight — Sugar Fires — Cocoyotla — Old Gentleman — Supper — Orange-trees and Cocoas — Delicious Water — Sugar Estates — A Scorpion — Set off for the Cave — Morning Ride — Dangerous Path

Letter the Thirty-Third

Cave of Cacahuamilpa — Superstition — Long-bearded Goat — Portal — Vestibule — Fantastic Forms — Breakfast — Pine Torches — Noble Hall — Stalactites and Stalagmites — Egyptian Pyramids — Double Gallery — Wonderful Formations — Corridor — Frozen Landscape — Amphitheatre — World in Chaos — Skeleton — Wax Lights — Hall of Angels — Return — Distant Light — Indian Alcalde — Cautlamilpas — Rancho — Return to Cocoyotla — Chapel — Meacatlan — Eclipse of the Moon — Benighted Travellers — Indian Village — El Puente — Return to Atlacamulco.

Letter the Thirty-Fourth

Ride by Starlight — Fear of Robbers — Tropical Wild Flowers — Stout Escort — Hautepec — Hacienda of Cocoyoc — A Fire — Three Thousand Orange-trees — Coffee Mills, etc. — Variety of Tropical Fruits — Prodigality of Nature — Casasano — Celebrated Reservoir — Ride to Santa Clara — A Philosopher — A Scorpion — Leave Santa Clara — Dangerous BarrancaColon — Agreeable House — Civil Administrador — San Nicolas — Solitude — Franciscan Friar — Rainy Morning — Pink Turban — Arrival at Atlisco — Cypress — Department of Puebla — Volcanoes — Doña Marina — Verses — Popocatepetl — Cholula — Great Pyramid — Arrival at Puebla.

Letter the Thirty-Fifth

Theatre — Portmanteaus — Visitors — Houses of Puebla — Fine Arts — Paseo — Don N. Ramos Arispe — Bishop — Cotton Factories — Don Esteban Antunano — Bank of Avio — United States Machinery — Accidents — Difficulties — Shipwrecks — Detentions — Wonderful Perseverance — “La Constancia Mejicana” Hospital — Prison — El Carmen — Paintings — Painted Floors — Angels — Cathedral — Gold and Jewels — A Comedy — Bishop’s Palace — Want of Masters.

Letter the Thirty-Sixth

Concert — Diligence — Leave Puebla — Escort — View from the Cathedral Towers — Black Forest — History of the Crosses — Tales of Murder — An Alarm — Report of a Skirmish — Rio Frío — Law concerning Robbers — Their Moderation — Return to Mexico — Carnival Ball — Improvement in Dress.

Letter the Thirty-Seventh

Distinguished Men–Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria — Anecdote — Señor Pedraza — Señor Gutierrez Estrada — Count Cortina — Señor Gorostiza — Don Carlos Bustamante — “Mornings in the Alameda” — Don Andrés Quintana Roo — Don Lucas Alaman — General Moran — General Almonte — Señor Canedo — Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores — Doctor Valentin — Don Francisco Tagle — Eight Revolutions.

Letter the Thirty-Eighth

New Minister — San Angel — Profitable Pulque Estate — The Village — Surrounding Scenery — The Indians — The Padre — The Climate — Holy Week in the Country — Dramatic Representations — Coyohuacan — The Pharisees — Image of the Saviour — Music and Dresses — Procession — Catholicism amongst the Indians — Strange Tradition — Paul the Fifth — Contrast between a Mexican and a New England Village — Love of Fireworks — Ferdinand the Seventh — Military Ball — Drapeaux.

Letter the Thirty-Ninth

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan — Hernan Cortes — His Last Wishes — Padres Camilos — Old Church — Procession — Representation of the taking of Christ — Curate’s Sermon under the Trees — A Religious Drama — Good Friday — Portable Pulpit — Heat — Booths — Religious Procession — Simon the Cyrenian — Coutumes — Curate’s Sermon — Second Discourse — Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate — Descent from the Cross — Procession of the Angels — Funeral Hymn — The Pesame to the Virgin — Sermon — “Sweet Kitty Clover” — Music in Mexico — Anecdote.

Letter the Fortieth

Balloon — San Bartolo — Indian Women — A Beauty — Different Castes — Indians — Their Character, etc. — Those of Noble Race — Ball at the French Minister’s-Abecilta — Danger of Walking Unattended — Shooting Party — A Murder — Robbery of a Farmhouse — Discomfited Robber Captain — The “Zambos” — Letters and Visitors — Country Life in Mexico.

Letter the Forty-First

Gambling — Fête at San Agustin — Breakfast at San Antonio — Report — Cock-fight — Ladies — Private Gambling — A Vaca — The Calvario — Bonnets — Dinner — Evening Ball — Mingling of Classes — Copper Tables — Dresses and Decorations — Indian Bankers, Male and Female — Decorum–Habit — Holders of Banks — Female Gambler — Robbery — Anecdote — Bet — Casa de Moneda — Leave San Angel — Celebration — Address — Cross and Diploma — Reply — Presentation of a Sword — Discourses and Addresses — Reflections.

Letter the Forty-Second

Italian Opera — Artists, Male and Female — Prima Donna — Lucia de Lammermoor — Some Disappointment — Second Representation — Improvement — Romeo and Giulietta — La Ricci — La Señora Cesari — The Mint — False Coining — Repetition of Lucia — Procession by Night — A Spanish Beauty — Discriminating Audience — A little Too Simple — Gold Embroidery — Santiago — Pilgrims — Old Indian Custom — Soiree — Mexico by Moonlight — Mysterious Figure — Archbishop — Viceroy.

Letter the Forty-Third

Revillagigedo — The False Merchant and the Lady — The Viceroy, the Unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces — Horrible Murder — Details — Oath — Country Family — The Spot of Blood — The Mother unknowingly denounces her Son — Arrest of the Three — Confession — Execution — The Viceroy fulfils his Pledge — Paving of the Streets — Severity to the Monks — Solitary Damsel — Box on the Ear — Pension — Morning Concert — New Minister — “Street of the Sad Indian” — Traditions — A Farewell Audience — Inscription on a Tomb.

Letter the Forty-Fourth

Agitation — Storm — Revolution — Manifesto — Resembling a Game of Chess — Position of the Pieces — Appearance of the City — Firing — State of Parties — Comparisons — “Comicios” — The People — Congress — Santa Anna — Amnesty offered — Roaring of Cannon — Proclamation — Time to look at home — The Will of the Nation — Different Feelings — Judge’s House destroyed — The Mint in Requisition — Preparations — Cannonading — “Los Enanos.”

Letter the Forty-Fifth

Leave Mexico–Travelling Equipage — San Xavier — Fine Hacienda — Millionaires — Well-educated Ladies — Garden, etc. — Tlanapantla — Indian Hut — Mrs. Ward — Doña Margarita — The Pronunciamiento — False Step — Santa Anna in Puebla — Neutrality — General Paredes — President in Tlanapantla — Tired Troops — Their March — Their Return — Curate’s House — Murder — General Paredes in the Lecheria — President in Tlanapantla — A Meeting — Return of the President and his Troops — General Paredes and his Men — Santa Anna in Tacubaya — A Junction — President in Mexico — Allied Sovereigns — Plan — Articles — President declares for Federalism — Resigns — Results — Hostilities — Capitulation — Triumphal Entry — Te Deum — New Ministry.

Letter the Forty-Sixth

Santa Monica — Solidity — Old Paintings — Anachronism–Babies and Nurses from the Cuna — Society — Funds — Plan — Indian Nurses — Carmelite Convent — Midnight Warning — Old Villages and Churches — Indian Bath — San Mateo — The Lecheria — Fertility — Nolino Viejo — Dulness — Religious Exercises — Return to Mexico — Mexican Hotel — New Generals — Disturbances — General Bustamante — Inconvenience — Abuses in the name of Liberty — Verses — Independence celebrated.

Letter the Forty-Seventh

Opera — Santa Anna and his Suite — His Appearance — Belisario — Solitary “Viva!” — Brilliant House — Military Dictatorship — San Juan de Dios — Hospital de JesúsCuna — Old Woman and Baby — Different Apartments — Acordada — Junta — Female Prisoners — Chief Crime — Travaux Forces — Children — Male Prisoners — Forçats — Soldier’s Gambling — Chapel — Confessional — Insane Hospital — Frenchmen — Different Kinds of Insanity — Kitchen — Dinner — Insane Monk — “Black Chamber” — Soldiers — College — Santa Anna’s Leg — Projects — All Saints — Señora P——a — Leave-takings.

Letter the Forty-Eighth

Leave Mexico — Diligence — Indian Padre — Brandy-drinking Female — Bad Roads — Beautiful View — Escort — Good Breakfast — Crosses — Robber’s Head — Select Party — Lerma — Valley of Toluca — Hacienda — Toluca — Count de B—— and Mr. W——— The Comandante — Gay Supper — Colonel Y——— Day at Toluca — Journey to La Gabia — Heat and Hunger — Pleasant Quarters — Princely Estate — El Pilar — A Zorillo — A Wolf — Long Journey — Tortillas — Count de B——— State of Michoacán — Forest Scenery — Trojes of Angangueo — Comfort.

Letter the Forty-Ninth

Leave Trojes — Beautiful Territory — Tarrascan Indians — Taximaroa — Distressed Condition — An Improvement — Cold Morning — Querendaro — Fine Breed of Horses — San Bartolo — Produce — Country Proprietors — Colear — Ride to Morelia — Wild Ducks — Sunset — Cathedral Bell — Cuincho — Curates Morelos, Mantamoros and Hidalgo — Warm Baths — Handsome Girls — Starving Travellers — Lost Mules — Lancers — Night on a Heap of Straw — Mules Found — Tzintzontzan — King Calsonsi — Pascuaro — Kind Reception — Bishop — Robbers — Curu — Night in a Barn — Mountain — Uruapa — Enchanting Scenery — Pleasant Family — Jorullo.

Letter the Fiftieth

Indian Dresses — Saints — Music — Union of Tropical and European Vegetation — Old Customs — Falls of the Sararaqui — Silkworms — Indian Painting — Beautiful Heroine — Leave Uruapa — Tziracuaratiro — Talkative Indian — Alcalde’s House — Pascuaro — Old Church — Mosaic Work — The Lake — The Cave — Fried Fish — Rich Indians — Convent — Cuincho — Darkness — Morelia — Alameda — Cathedral — Silver — Waxworks — College — Wonderful Fleas.

Letter the Fifty-First

San Bartolo — Mass — Market — Rancheros — San Andrés — Insanity — Rancho — House of Don Carlos Heimburger — Wild Scenery — German Songs — Las Millas — Leave-taking — Storm — Rainbow — El Pilar — La Gabia — Toluca — News — Copper Pronunciamiento —— Return to Mexico — General Moran — Funeral Obsequies — New Theatre — Cock’s Mass — Santa Clara — Santa Fe Prisoners — New Year.

Letter the Fifty-Second

Last Day in Mexico — Theatre — Santa Anna — French Minister’s — Parting — Diligence — Last Look of Mexico — Fatigue — Robbers — Escort — Second Impressions — Baths at Jalapa — Vera Cruz — Some Account of San Juan de Ulua — Siege of 1825 — Siege of 1838 — General Bustamante — Theatre — Of the North Winds.

Letter the Fifty-Third

Sail in the Tyrian — Norther off Tampico — The Bar — The River Panuco — The Pilot — The Shore — Alligator — “Paso de Doña Cecilia” — Tampico — Spanish Consul’s House — Society — Navigation — Banks of the Panuco — Extraordinary Inoculation — The “Glorieta” — Leave Tampico — Furious Norther — Voyage — Arrival at Havana.

Letter the Fifty-Fourth

Havana — The Carnival — The Elssler — La Angosta — Ingenio of Count V——a — General Bustamante — Lord Morpeth — Leave Havana — Voyage in the Medway — Old Friends–Return to the United States.

Glossary

FRANCES CALDERON DE LA BARCA, born in Edinburgh, 1804, the daughter of William Inglis. After her father’s death she settled in America, where she married the Spanish diplomat, Don Angel Calderon de la Barca. She accompanied him on his various appointments to Mexico, Washington, and finally to Madrid, where she was created Marquesa de Calderon de la Barca by Alfonso XII and died in 1882.

http://ebooks.adelaide.edu.au/t/travel/life_in_mexico/contents.html

Last updated Tuesday, March 4, 2014 at 20:05