The Bible in Spain

by

George Borrow


Table of Contents

AUTHOR’S PREFACE

CHAPTER I

Man Overboard—The Tagus—Foreign Languages—Gesticulation—Streets of Lisbon—The Aqueduct—Bible tolerated in Portugal—Cintra—Don Sebastian—John de Castro—Conversation with a Priest—Colhares— Mafra—Its Palace—The Schoolmaster—The Portuguese—Their Ignorance of Scripture—Rural Priesthood—The Alemtejo.

CHAPTER II

Boatmen of the Tagus—Dangers of the Stream—Aldea Gallega—The Hostelry—Robbers—Sabocha—Adventure of a Muleteer—Estalagem de Ladroes—Don Geronimo—Vendas Novas—Royal Residence—Swine of the Alemtejo—Monto Moro—Swayne Vonved—Singular Goatherd—Children of the Fields—Infidels and Sadducees.

CHAPTER III

Shopkeeper at Evora—Spanish Contrabandistas—Lion and Unicorn—The Fountain—Trust in the Almighty—Distribution of Tracts—Library at Evora—Manuscript—The Bible as a Guide—The Infamous Mary—The Man of Palmella—The Charm—The Monkish System—Sunday—Volney—An Auto–Da-Fe—Men from Spain—Reading of a Tract—New Arrival—The Herb Rosemary.

CHAPTER IV

Vexatious Delays—Drunken Driver—The Murdered Mule—The Lamentation—Adventure on the Heath—Fear of Darkness—Portuguese Fidalgo—The Escort—Return to Lisbon.

CHAPTER V

The College—The Rector—Shibboleth—National Prejudices—Youthful Sports—Jews of Lisbon—Bad Faith—Crime and Superstition—Strange Proposal.

CHAPTER VI

Cold of Portugal—Extortion prevented—Sensation of Loneliness—The Dog—The Convent—Enchanting Landscape—Moorish Fortresses—Prayer for the Sick.

CHAPTER VII

The Druids’ Stone—The Young Spaniard—Ruffianly Soldiers—Evils of War—Estremoz—The Brawl—Ruined Watch Tower—Glimpse of Spain—Old Times and New.

CHAPTER VIII

Elvas—Extraordinary Longevity—The English Nation—Portuguese Ingratitude—Illiberality—Fortifications—Spanish Beggar—Badajoz—The Custom House.

CHAPTER IX

Badajoz—Antonio the Gypsy—Antonio’s Proposal—The Proposal Accepted—Gypsy Breakfast—Departure from Badajoz—The Gypsy Donkey—Merida—The Ruined Wall—The Crone—The Land of the Moor— The Black Men—Life in the Desert—The Supper.

CHAPTER X

The Gypsy’s Granddaughter—Proposed Marriage—The Algnazil—The Assault—Speedy Trot—Arrival at Trujillo—Night and Rain—The Forest—The Bivouac—Mount and Away!—Jaraicejo—The National—The Cavalier Balmerson—Among the Thicket—Serious Discourse—What is Truth?—Unexpected Intelligence.

CHAPTER XI

The Pass of Mirabete—Wolves and Shepherds—Female Subtlety—Death by Wolves—The Mystery Solved—The Mountains—The Dark Hour—The Traveller of the Night—Abarbenel—Hoarded Treasure—Force of Gold—The Archbishop—Arrival at Madrid

CHAPTER XII

Lodging at Madrid—My Hostess—British Ambassador—Mendizabal— Baltasar—Duties of a National—Young Blood—The Execution— Population of Madrid—The Higher Orders—The Lower Classes—The Bull-fighter—The Crabbed Gitano.

CHAPTER XIII

Intrigues at Court—Quesada and Galiano—Dissolution of the Cortes—The Secretary—Aragonese Pertinacity—The Council of Trent—The Asturian—The Three Thieves—Benedict Mol—The Men of Lucerne—The Treasure

CHAPTER XIV

State of Spain—Isturitz—Revolution of the Granja—The Disturbance—Signs of Mischief—Newspaper Reporters—Quesada’s Onslaught—The Closing Scene—Flight of the Moderados—The Coffee Bowl.

CHAPTER XV

The Steamer—Cape Finisterre—The Storm—Arrival at Cadiz—The New Testament—Seville—Italica—The Amphitheatre—The Prisoners—The Encounter—Baron Taylor—The Street and Desert.

CHAPTER XVI

Departure for Cordova—Carmona—German Colonies—Language—The Sluggish Horse—Nocturnal Welcome—Carlist Landlord—Good Advice— Gomez—The Old Genoese—The Two Opinions.

CHAPTER XVII

Cordova—Moors of Barbary—The English—An Old Priest—The Roman Breviary—The Dovecote—The Holy Office—Judaism—Desecration of Dovecotes—The Innkeeper’s Proposal.

CHAPTER XVIII

Departure from Cordova—The Contrabandista—Jewish Cunning—Arrival at Madrid.

CHAPTER XIX

Arrival at Madrid—Maria Diaz—Printing of the Testament—My Project—Andalusian Steed—Servant Wanted—An Application—Antonio Buchini—General Cordova—Principles of Honour.

CHAPTER XX

Illness—Nocturnal Visit—A Master Mind—The Whisper—Salamanca— Irish Hospitality—Spanish Soldiers—The Scriptures advertised.

CHAPTER XXI

Departure from Salamanca—Reception at Pitiegua—The Dilemma— Sudden Inspiration—The Good Presbyter—Combat of Quadrupeds—Irish Christians—Plains of Spain—The Catalans—The Fatal Pool— Valladolid—Circulation of the Scriptures—Philippine Missions— English College—A Conversation—The Gaoleress.

CHAPTER XXII

Duenas—Children of Egypt—Jockeyism—The Baggage Pony—The Fall— Palencia—Carlist Priests—The Lookout—Priestly Sincerity—Leon— Antonio alarmed—Heat and Dust.

CHAPTER XXIII

Astorga—The Inn—The Maragatos—The Habits of the Maragatos—The Statue.

CHAPTER XXIV

Departure from Astorga—The Venta—The By-path—Narrow Escape—The Cup of Water—Sun and Shade—Bembibre—Convent of the Rocks— Sunset—Cacabelos—Midnight Adventure—Villafrancs.

CHAPTER XXV

Villafranca—The Pass—Gallegan Simplicity—The Frontier Guard—The Horse-shoe—Gallegan Peculiarities—A Word on Language—The Courier—Wretched Cabins—Host and Guests—Andalusians.

CHAPTER XXVI

Lugo—The Baths—A Family History—Miguelets—The Three Heads—A Farrier—English Squadron—Sale of Testaments—Coruna—The Recognition—Luigi Piozzi—The Speculation—A Blank Prospect—John Moore.

CHAPTER XXVII

Compostella—Rey Romero—The Treasure-seeker—Hopeful Project—The Church of Refuge—Hidden Riches—The Canon—Spirit of Localism—The Leper—Bones of St. James.

CHAPTER XXVIII

Skippers of Padron—Caldas de los Reyes—Pontevedra—The Notary Public—Insane Barber—An Introduction—Gallegan Language— Afternoon Ride—Vigo—The Stranger—Jews of the Desert—Bay of Vigo—Sudden Interruption—The Governor.

CHAPTER XXIX

Arrival at Padron—Projected Enterprise—The Alquilador—Breach of Promise—An Odd Companion—A Plain Story—Rugged Paths—The Desertion—The Pony—A Dialogue—Unpleasant Situation—The Estadea—Benighted—The Hut—The Traveller’s Pillow.

CHAPTER XXX

Autumnal Morning—The World’s End—Corcuvion—Duyo—The Cape—A Whale—The Outer Bay—The Arrest—The Fisher–Magistrate—Calros Rey—Hard of Belief—Where is your Passport?—The Beach—A Mighty Liberal—The Handmaid—The Grand Baintham—Eccentric Book— Hospitality.

CHAPTER XXXI

Coruna—Crossing the Bay—Ferrol—The Dockyard—Where are we now?— Greek Ambassador—Lantern-light—The Ravine—Viveiro—Evening— Marsh and Quagmire—Fair Words and Fair Money—The Leathern Girth— Eyes of Lynx—The Knavish Guide.

CHAPTER XXXII

Martin of Rivadeo—The Factious Mare—Asturians—Luarca—The Seven Bellotas—Hermits—The Asturian’s Tale—Strange Guests—The Big Servant—Batuschca

CHAPTER XXXIII

Oviedo—The Ten Gentlemen—The Swiss again—Modest Request—The Robbers—Episcopal Benevolence—The Cathedral—Portrait of Feijoo.

CHAPTER XXXIV

Departure from Oviedo—Villa Viciosa—The Young Man of the Inn— Antonio’s Tale—The General and his Family—Woful Tidings—To-morrow we Die—San Vincente—Santander—An Harangue—Flinter the Irishman.

CHAPTER XXXV

Departure from Santander—The Night Alarm—The Black Pass.

CHAPTER XXXVI

State of Affairs at Madrid—The New Ministry—Pope of Rome—The Bookseller of Toledo—Sword Blades—Houses of Toledo—The Forlorn Gypsy—Proceedings at Madrid—Another Servant.

CHAPTER XXXVII

Euscarra—Basque not Irish—Sanskrit and Tartar Dialects—A Vowel Language—Popular Poetry—The Basques—Their Persons—Basque Women.

CHAPTER XXXVIII

The Prohibition—Gospel Persecuted—Charge of Sorcery—Ofalia.

CHAPTER XXXIX

The Two Gospels—The Alguazil—The Warrant—The Good Maria—The Arrest—Sent to Prison—Reflections—The Reception—The Prison Room—Redress Demanded.

CHAPTER XL

Ofalia—The Juez—Carcel do la Corte—Sunday in Prison—Robber Dress—Father and Son—Characteristic Behaviour—The Frenchman— Prison Allowance—Valley of the Shadow—Pure Castilian—Balseiro— The Cave—Robber Glory.

CHAPTER XLI

Maria Diaz—Priestly Vituperation—Antonio’s Visit—Antonio at Service—A Scene—Benedict Mol—Wandering in Spain—The Four Evangiles.

CHAPTER XLII

Liberation from Prison—The Apology—Human Nature—The Greek’s Return—Church of Rome—Light of Scripture—Archbishop of Toledo— An Interview—Stones of Price—A Resolution—The Foreign Language— Benedict’s Farewell—Treasure Hunt at Compostella—Truth and Fiction.

CHAPTER XLIII

Villa Seca—Moorish House—The Puchera—The Rustic Council—Polite Ceremonial—The Flower of Spain—The Bridge of Azeca—The Ruined Castle—Taking the Field—Demand for the Word—The Old Peasant—The Curate and Blacksmith—Cheapness of the Scriptures.

CHAPTER XLIV

Aranjuez—A Warning—A Night Adventure—A Fresh Expedition— Segovia—Abades—Factions Curas—Lopez in Prison—Rescue of Lopez.

CHAPTER XLV

Return to Spain—Seville—A Hoary Persecutor—Manchegan Prophetess—Antonio’s Dream.

CHAPTER XLVI

Work of Distribution resumed—Adventure at Cobenna—Power of the Clergy—Rural Authorities—Fuente la Higuera—Victoriano’s Mishap— Village Prison—The Rope—Antonio’s Errand—Antonio at Mass.

CHAPTER XLVII

Termination of our Rural Labours—Alarm of the Clergy—A New Experiment—Success at Madrid—Goblin–Alguazil—Staff of Office— The Corregidor—An Explanation—The Pope in England—New Testament expounded—Works of Luther.

CHAPTER XLVIII

Projected Journey—A Scene of Blood—The Friar—Seville—Beauties of Seville—Orange Trees and Flowers—Murillo—The Guardian Angel— Dionysius—My Coadjutors—Demand for the Bible.

CHAPTER XLIX

The Solitary House—The Dehesa—Johannes Chrysostom—Manuel— Bookselling at Seville—Dionysius and the Priests—Athens and Rome—Proselytism—Seizure of Testaments—Departure from Seville.

CHAPTER L

Night on the Guadalquivir—Gospel Light—Bonanza—Strand of San Lucar—Andalusian Scenery—History of a Chest—Cosas de los Ingleses—The Two Gypsies—The Driver—The Red Nightcap—The Steam Boat—Christian Language.

CHAPTER LI

Cadiz—The Fortifications—The Consul–General—Characteristic Anecdote—Catalan Steamer—Trafalgar—Alonzo Guzman—Gibil Muza— Orestes Frigate—The Hostile Lion—Works of the Creator—Lizard of the Rock—The Concourse—Queen of the Waters—Broken Prayer.

CHAPTER LII

The Jolly Hosteler—Aspirants for Glory—A Portrait—Hamalos— Solomons—An Expedition—The Yeoman Soldier—The Excavations—The Pull by the Skirt—Judah and his Father—Judah’s Pilgrimage—The Bushy Beard—The False Moors—Judah and the King’s Son—Premature Old Age.

CHAPTER LIII

Genoese Mariners—St. Michael’s Cave—Midnight Abysses—Young American—A Slave Proprietor—The Fairy Man—Infidelity.

CHAPTER LIV

Again on Board—The Strange Visage—The Hadji—Setting Sail—The Two Jews—American Vessel—Tangier—Adun Oulem—The Struggle—The Forbidden Thing.

CHAPTER LV

The Mole—The Two Moors—Djmah of Tangier—House of God—British Consul—Curious Spectacle—The Moorish House—Joanna Correa—Ave Maria.

CHAPTER LVI

The Mahasni—Sin Samani—The Bazaar—Moorish Saints—See the Ayana!—The Prickly Fig—Jewish Graves—The Place of Carcases—The Stable Boy—Horses of the Moslem—Dar Dwag.

CHAPTER LVII

Strange Trio—The Mulatto—The Peace-offering—Moors of Granada— Vive la Guadeloupo—The Moors—Pascual Fava—Blind Algerine—The Retreat.

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