Unbeaten Tracks in Japan, by Isabella L. Bird

Table of Contents

Preface

Letter 1

First View of Japan — A Vision of Fujisan — Japanese Sampans — “Pullman Cars”— Undignified Locomotion — Paper Money — The Drawbacks of Japanese Travelling.

Letter 2

Sir Harry Parkes — An “Ambassador’s Carriage”— Cart Coolies.

Letter 3

Yedo and Tokiyo — The Yokohama Railroad — The Effect of Misfits — The Plain of Yedo — Personal Peculiarities — First Impressions of Tokiyo — H. B. M.‘s Legation — An English Home.

Letter 4

“John Chinaman”— Engaging a Servant — First Impressions of Ito — A Solemn Contract — The Food Question.

Letter 5

Kwan-non Temple — Uniformity of Temple Architecture — A Kuruma Expedition — A Perpetual Festival — The Ni-o — The Limbo of Vanity — Heathen Prayers — Binzuru — A Group of Devils — Archery Galleries — New Japan — An Elegante.

Letter 6

Fears — Travelling Equipments — Passports — Coolie Costume — A Yedo Diorama — Rice–Fields — Tea–Houses — A Traveller’s Reception — The Inn at Kasukabe — Lack of Privacy — A Concourse of Noises — A Nocturnal Alarm — A Vision of Policemen — A Budget from Yedo.

Letter 6 —(Continued)

A Coolie falls ill — Peasant Costume — Varieties in Threshing — The Tochigi yadoya — Farming Villages — A Beautiful Region — An In Memoriam Avenue — A Doll’s Street — Nikko — The Journey’s End — Coolie Kindliness.

Letter 7

A Japanese Idyll — Musical Stillness — My Rooms — Floral Decorations — Kanaya and his Household — Table Equipments.

Letter 8

The Beauties of Nikko — The Burial of Iyeyasu — The Approach to the Great Shrines — The Yomei Gate — Gorgeous Decorations — Simplicity of the Mausoleum — The Shrine of Iyemitsu — Religious Art of Japan and India — An Earthquake — Beauties of Wood-carving.

Letter 9

A Japanese Pack–Horse and Pack–Saddle — Yadoya and Attendant — A Native Watering–Place — The Sulphur Baths — A “Squeeze.”

Letter 10

Peaceful Monotony — A Japanese School — A Dismal Ditty — Punishment — A Children’s Party — A Juvenile Belle — Female Names — A Juvenile Drama — Needlework — Calligraphy — Arranging Flowers — Kanaya — Daily Routine —— An Evening’s Entertainment — Planning Routes — The God-shelf.

Letter 10 —(Continued)

Darkness visible — Nikko Shops — Girls and Matrons — Night and Sleep — Parental Love — Childish Docility — Hair-dressing — Skin Diseases.

Letter 10 —(Completed)

Shops and Shopping — The Barber’s Shop — A Paper Waterproof — Ito’s Vanity — Preparations for the Journey — Transport and Prices — Money and Measurements.

Letter 11

Comfort disappears — Fine Scenery — An Alarm — A Farm-house — An unusual Costume — Bridling a Horse — Female Dress and Ugliness — Babies — My Mago — Beauties of the Kinugawa — Fujihara — My Servant — Horse-shoes — An absurd Mistake.

Letter 12

A Fantastic Jumble — The “Quiver” of Poverty — The Water-shed — From Bad to Worse — The Rice Planter’s Holiday — A Diseased Crowd — Amateur Doctoring — Want of Cleanliness — Rapid Eating — Premature Old Age.

Letter 12 —(Concluded)

A Japanese Ferry — A Corrugated Road — The Pass of Sanno — Various Vegetation — An Unattractive Undergrowth — Preponderance of Men.

Letter 13

The Plain of Wakamatsu — Light Costume — The Takata Crowd — A Congress of Schoolmasters — Timidity of a Crowd — Bad Roads — Vicious Horses — Mountain Scenery — A Picturesque Inn — Swallowing a Fish-bone — Poverty and Suicide — An Inn-kitchen — England Unknown! — My Breakfast Disappears.

Letter 14

An Infamous Road — Monotonous Greenery — Abysmal Dirt — Low Lives — The Tsugawa Yadoya — Politeness — A Shipping Port — A Barbarian Devil.

Letter 15

A Hurry — The Tsugawa Packet-boat — Running the Rapids — Fantastic Scenery — The River-life — Vineyards — Drying Barley — Summer Silence — The Outskirts of Niigata — The Church Mission House.

Letter 16

Abominable Weather — Insect Pests — Absence of Foreign Trade — A Refractory River — Progress — The Japanese City — Water Highways — Niigata Gardens — Ruth Fyson — The Winter Climate — A Population in Wadding.

Letter 17

The Canal-side at Niigata — Awful Loneliness — Courtesy — Dr. Palm’s Tandem — A Noisy Matsuri — A Jolting Journey — The Mountain Villages — Winter Dismalness — An Out-of-the-world Hamlet — Crowded Dwellings — Riding a Cow —“Drunk and Disorderly”— An Enforced Rest — Local Discouragements — Heavy Loads — Absence of Beggary — Slow Travelling.

Letter 18

Comely Kine — Japanese Criticism on a Foreign Usage — A Pleasant Halt — Renewed Courtesies — The Plain of Yonezawa — A Curious Mistake — The Mother’s Memorial — Arrival at Komatsu — Stately Accommodation — A Vicious Horse — An Asiatic Arcadia — A Fashionable Watering-place — A Belle —“Godowns.”

Letter 19

Prosperity — Convict Labour — A New Bridge — Yamagata — Intoxicating Forgeries — The Government Buildings — Bad Manners — Snow Mountains — A Wretched Town.

Letter 20

The Effect of a Chicken — Poor Fare — Slow Travelling — Objects of Interest — Kak’ke — The Fatal Close — A Great Fire — Security of the Kuras.

Letter 20 —(Continued)

Lunch in Public — A Grotesque Accident — Police Inquiries — Man or Woman? — A Melancholy Stare — A Vicious Horse — An Ill-favoured Town — A Disappointment — A Torii.

Letter 20 —(Concluded)

A Casual Invitation — A Ludicrous Incident — Politeness of a Policeman — A Comfortless Sunday — An Outrageous Irruption — A Privileged Stare.

Letter 21

The Necessity of Firmness — Perplexing Misrepresentations — Gliding with the Stream — Suburban Residences — The Kubota Hospital — A Formal Reception — The Normal School.

Letter 22

A Silk Factory — Employment for Women — A Police Escort — The Japanese Police Force.

Letter 23

“A Plague of Immoderate Rain”— A Confidential Servant — Ito’s Diary — Ito’s Excellences — Ito’s Faults — Prophecy of the Future of Japan — Curious Queries — Superfine English — Economical Travelling — The Japanese Pack-horse again.

Letter 24

The Symbolism of Seaweed — Afternoon Visitors — An Infant Prodigy — A Feat in Caligraphy — Child Worship — A Borrowed Dress — A Trousseau — House Furniture — The Marriage Ceremony.

Letter 25

A Holiday Scene — A Matsuri — Attractions of the Revel — Matsuri Cars — Gods and Demons — A Possible Harbour — A Village Forge — Prosperity of Sake Brewers — A “Great Sight.”

Letter 26

The Fatigues of Travelling — Torrents and Mud — Ito’s Surliness — The Blind Shampooers — A Supposed Monkey Theatre — A Suspended Ferry — A Difficult Transit — Perils on the Yonetsurugawa — A Boatman Drowned — Nocturnal Disturbances — A Noisy Yadoya — Storm-bound Travellers — Hai! Hai! — More Nocturnal Disturbances

Letter 27

Good-tempered Intoxication — The Effect of Sunshine — A tedious Altercation — Evening Occupations — Noisy Talk — Social Gathering — Unfair Comparisons.

Letter 28

Torrents of Rain — An unpleasant Detention — Devastations produced by Floods — The Yadate Pass — The Force of Water — Difficulties thicken — A Primitive Yadoya — The Water rises.

Letter 28 —(Continued)

Scanty Resources — Japanese Children — Children’s Games — A Sagacious Example — A Kite Competition — Personal Privations.

Letter 29

Hope deferred — Effects of the Flood — Activity of the Police — A Ramble in Disguise — The Tanabata Festival — Mr. Satow’s Reputation.

Letter 30

A Lady’s Toilet — Hair-dressing — Paint and Cosmetics — Afternoon Visitors — Christian Converts.

Letter 31

A Travelling Curiosity — Rude Dwellings — Primitive Simplicity — The Public Bath-house.

Letter 32

A Hard Day’s Journey — An Overturn — Nearing the Ocean — Joyful Excitement — Universal Greyness — Inopportune Policemen — A Stormy Voyage — A Wild Welcome — A Windy Landing — The Journey’s End.

Letter 33

Form and Colour — A Windy Capital — Eccentricities in House Roofs.

Letter 34

Ito’s Delinquency —“Missionary Manners”— A Predicted Failure.

Letter 35

A Lovely Sunset — An Official Letter — A “Front Horse”— Japanese Courtesy — The Steam Ferry — Coolies Abscond — A Team of Savages — A Drove of Horses — Floral Beauties — An Unbeaten Track — A Ghostly Dwelling — Solitude and Eeriness.

Letter 35 —(Continued)

The Harmonies of Nature — A Good Horse — A Single Discord — A Forest — Aino Ferrymen —“Les Puces! Les Puces!”— Baffled Explorers — Ito’s Contempt for Ainos — An Aino Introduction.

Letter 36

Savage Life — A Forest Track — Cleanly Villages — A Hospitable Reception — The Chief’s Mother — The Evening Meal — A Savage Seance — Libations to the Gods — Nocturnal Silence — Aino Courtesy — The Chief’s Wife.

Letter 36 —(Continued)

A Supposed Act of Worship — Parental Tenderness — Morning Visits — Wretched Cultivation — Honesty and Generosity — A “Dug-out”— Female Occupations — The Ancient Fate — A New Arrival — A Perilous Prescription — The Shrine of Yoshitsune — The Chief’s Return.

Letter 37

Barrenness of Savage Life — Irreclaimable Savages — The Aino Physique — Female Comeliness — Torture and Ornament — Child Life — Docility and Obedience.

Letter 37 —(Continued)

Aino Clothing — Holiday Dress — Domestic Architecture — Household Gods — Japanese Curios — The Necessaries of Life — Clay Soup — Arrow Poison — Arrow–Traps — Female Occupations — Bark Cloth — The Art of Weaving.

Letter 37 —(Continued)

A Simple Nature–Worship — Aino Gods — A Festival Song — Religious Intoxication — Bear–Worship — The Annual Saturnalia — The Future State — Marriage and Divorce — Musical Instruments — Etiquette — The Chieftainship — Death and Burial — Old Age — Moral Qualities.

Letter 38

A Parting Gift — A Delicacy — Generosity — A Seaside Village — Pipichari’s Advice — A Drunken Revel — Ito’s Prophecies — The Kocho’s Illness — Patent Medicines.

Letter 39

A Welcome Gift — Recent Changes — Volcanic Phenomena — Interesting Tufa Cones — Semi-strangulation — A Fall into a Bear-trap — The Shiraoi Ainos — Horsebreaking and Cruelty.

Letter 39 —(Continued)

The Universal Language — The Yezo Corrals — A “Typhoon Rain”— Difficult Tracks — An Unenviable Ride — Drying Clothes — A Woman’s Remorse.

Letter 40

“More than Peace”— Geographical Difficulties — Usu-taki — Swimming the Osharu — A Dream of Beauty — A Sunset Effect — A Nocturnal Alarm — The Coast Ainos.

Letter 40 —(Continued)

The Sea-shore — A “Hairy Aino”— A Horse Fight — The Horses of Yezo — “Bad Mountains”— A Slight Accident — Magnificent Scenery — A Bleached Halting–Place — A Musty Room — Aino “Good-breeding.”

Letter 41

A Group of Fathers — The Lebunge Ainos — The Salisburia adiantifolia — A Family Group — The Missing Link — Oshamambe — Disorderly Horses — The River Yurapu — The Seaside — Aino Canoes — The Last Morning — Dodging Europeans.

Letter 42

Pleasant Last Impressions — The Japanese Junk — Ito Disappears — My Letter of Thanks.

Letter 43

Pleasant Prospects — A Miserable Disappointment — Caught in a Typhoon — A Dense Fog — Alarmist Rumours — A Welcome at Tokiyo — The Last of the Mutineers.

Letter 44

Fine Weather — Cremation in Japan — The Governor of Tokiyo — An Awkward Question — An Insignificant Building — Economy in Funeral Expenses — Simplicity of the Cremation Process — The Last of Japan.

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Last updated Wednesday, March 12, 2014 at 13:31