The Englishwoman in America, by Isabella Bird

Prefatory and explanatory — The voyage out — The sentimental — The actual — The oblivious — The medley — Practical joking — An unwelcome companion — American patriotism — The first view — The departure.
An inhospitable reception — Halifax and the Blue Noses — The heat — Disappointed expectations — The great departed — What the Blue Noses might be — What the coach was not — Nova Scotia and its capabilities — The roads and their annoyances — A tea dinner — A night journey and a Highland cabin — A nautical catastrophe — A joyful reunion.
Popular ignorance — The garden island — Summer and winter contrasted — A wooden capital — Island politics, and their consequences — Gossip — “Blowin-time” — Religion and the clergy — The servant nuisance — Colonial society — An evening party — An island premier — Agrarian outrage — A visit to the Indians — The pipe of peace — An Indian coquette — Country hospitality — A missionary — A novel mode of lobster-fishing — Uncivilised life — Far away in the woods — Starvation and dishonesty — An old Highlander and a Highland welcome — Hopes for the future.
From St. George’s Cross to the Stars and Stripes — Unpunctuality — Incompetence —— A wretched night — Colonial curiosity — The fashions — A night in a buffalo robe — A stage journey — A queer character — Politics — Chemistry — Mathematics — Rotten bridges — A midnight arrival — Colonial ignorance — Yankee conceit — What ten-horse power chaps can do — The pestilence — The city on the rock — New Brunswick — Steamboat peculiarities — Going ahead in the eating line — A storm — Stepping ashore.
First experiences of American freedom — The “striped pig” and “Dusty Ben” — A country mouse — What the cars are like — Beauties of New England — The land of apples — A Mammoth hotel — The rusty inkstand exiled — Eloquent eyes — Alone in a crowd.
A suspected bill — A friend in need — All aboard for the Western cars — The wings of the wind-American politeness — A loquacious conductor — Three minutes for refreshments — A conversation on politics — A confession — The emigrant car — Beauties of the woods — A forest on fire — Dangers of the cars — The Queen City of the West.
The Queen City continued — Its beauties — Its inhabitants human and equine — An American church — Where chairs and bedsteads come from — Pigs and pork — A peep into Kentucky — Popular opinions respecting slavery — The curse of America.
The hickory stick — Chawing up ruins — A forest scene — A curious questioner — Hard and soft shells — Dangers of a ferry — The western prairies — Nocturnal detention — The Wild West and the Father of Rivers — Breakfast in a shed — What is an alligator? — Physiognomy, and its uses — The ladies’ parlour — A Chicago hotel, its inmates and its horrors — A water-drinking people — The Prairie City — Progress of the West.
A vexatious incident — John Bull enraged — Woman’s rights — Alligators become hosses — A popular host — Military display — A mirth-provoking gun — Grave reminiscences — Attractions of the fair — Past and present — A floating palace — Black companions — A black baby — Externals of Buffalo — The flag of England.
The Place of Council — Its progress and its people — English hearts — “Sebastopol is taken” — Squibs and crackers — A ship on her beam-ends — Selfishness — A mongrel city — A Scot — Constancy rewarded — Monetary difficulties — Detention on a bridge — A Canadian homestead — Life in the clearings — The bush on fire — A word on farming — The “bee” and its produce — Eccentricities of Mr. Haldimands — A ride on a troop-horse — Scotch patriotism — An English church — The servant nuisance — Richard Cobden.
“I’ve seen nothing” — A disappointment — Incongruities — Hotel gaieties and “doing Niagara” — Irish drosky-drivers — “The Hell of Waters” — Beauties of Niagara — The picnic party — The White Canoe — A cold shower-bath — “The Thunder of Waters” — A magic word — “The Whirlpool” — Story of “Bloody Run” — Yankee opinions of English ladies — A metamorphosis — The nigger guide — A terrible situation — Termination Rock — Impressions of Niagara — Juvenile precocity — A midnight journey — Street adventures in Hamilton.
A scene at starting — That dear little Harry — The old lady and the race — Running the Rapids — An aside — Snow and discomfort-A new country — An extemporised ball — Adventure with a madman — Shooting the cataract — First appearance of Montreal — Its characteristics — Quebec in a fog — “Muffins” — Quebec gaieties —— The pestilence — Restlessness — St. Louis and St. Roch — The shady side — Dark dens — External characteristics — Lord Elgin — Mistaking a senator.
The House of Commons — Canadian gallantry — The constitution — Mr. Hincks — The ex-rebel — Parties and leaders — A street-row — Repeated disappointments — The “habitans” — Their houses and their virtues — A stationary people — Progress and its effects — Montmorenci — The natural staircase — The Indian summer — Lorette — The old people — Beauties of Quebec — The John Munn — Fear and its consequences — A gloomy journey.
Concluding remarks on Canada — Territory — Climate — Capabilities — Railways and canals — Advantages for emigrants — Notices of emigration — Government — The franchise — Revenue — Population — Religion — Education — The press — Literature — Observations in conclusion.
Preliminary remarks on re-entering the States — Americanisms — A little slang — Liquoring up — Eccentricities in dress — A ‘cute chap down east — Conversation on eating — A Kentucky gal — Lake Champlain — Delaval’s — A noisy serenade — Albany — Beauties of the Hudson — The Empire City.
Position of New York — Externals of the city — Conveyances — Maladministration — The stores — The hotels — Curiosities of the hospital — Ragged schools — The bad book — Monster schools — Amusements and oyster saloons — Monstrosities — A restaurant — Dwelling-houses — Equipages — Palaces — Dress — Figures — Manners — Education — Domestic habits — The ladies — The gentlemen — Society — Receptions — Anti–English feeling — Autographs — The “Buckram Englishman.”
The cemetery — Its beauties — The “Potter’s Field” — The graves of children — Monumental eccentricities — Arrival of emigrants — Their reception — Poor dwellings — The dangerous class — The elections — The riots — Characteristics of the streets — Journey to Boston — The sights of Boston — Longfellow — Cambridge university.
Origin of the Constitution — The Executive — Congress — Local Legislatures — The army and navy — Justice — Slavery — Political corruption — The foreign element — Absence of principle — Associations — The Know-nothings — The Press and its power — Religion — The Church — The Clergy.
General remarks continued — The common schools — Their defect — Difficulties — Management of the schools — The free academy — Railways — Telegraphs — Poverty — Literature — Advantages for emigrants — Difficulties of emigrants — Peace or war — Concluding observations.
The America — A gloomy departure — An ugly night — Morning at Halifax — Our new passengers — Babies — Captain Leitch — A day at sea — Clippers and steamers — A storm — An Atlantic moonlight — Unpleasant sensations — A gale — Inkermann — Conclusion.

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Last updated Monday, November 5, 2012 at 16:31