The Englishwoman in America

by

Isabella Bird

eBooks@Adelaide
2007

This web edition published by eBooks@Adelaide.

Rendered into HTML by Steve Thomas.

Last updated Saturday March 03 2007.

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Table of Contents

  1. Prefatory and explanatory—The voyage out—The sentimental—The actual— The oblivious—The medley—Practical joking—An unwelcome companion— American patriotism—The first view—The departure.
  2. An inhospitable reception—Halifax and the Blue Noses—The heat— Disappointed expectations—The great departed—What the Blue Noses might be—What the coach was not—Nova Scotia and its capabilities—The roads and their annoyances—A tea dinner—A night journey and a Highland cabin— A nautical catastrophe—A joyful reunion.
  3. Popular ignorance—The garden island—Summer and winter contrasted—A wooden capital—Island politics, and their consequences—Gossip—“Blowin-time”—Religion and the clergy—The servant nuisance—Colonial society—An evening party—An island premier—Agrarian outrage—A visit to the Indians—The pipe of peace—An Indian coquette—Country hospitality—A missionary—A novel mode of lobster-fishing—Uncivilised life—Far away in the woods—Starvation and dishonesty—An old Highlander and a Highland welcome—Hopes for the future.
  4. From St. George’s Cross to the Stars and Stripes—Unpunctuality— Incompetence——A wretched night—Colonial curiosity—The fashions—A night in a buffalo robe—A stage journey—A queer character—Politics— Chemistry—Mathematics—Rotten bridges—A midnight arrival—Colonial ignorance—Yankee conceit—What ten-horse power chaps can do—The pestilence—The city on the rock—New Brunswick—Steamboat peculiarities— Going ahead in the eating line—A storm—Stepping ashore.
  5. First experiences of American freedom—The “striped pig” and “Dusty Ben”— A country mouse—What the cars are like—Beauties of New England—The land of apples—A Mammoth hotel—The rusty inkstand exiled—Eloquent eyes— Alone in a crowd.
  6. A suspected bill—A friend in need—All aboard for the Western cars—The wings of the wind-American politeness—A loquacious conductor—Three minutes for refreshments—A conversation on politics—A confession—The emigrant car—Beauties of the woods—A forest on fire—Dangers of the cars—The Queen City of the West.
  7. The Queen City continued—Its beauties—Its inhabitants human and equine— An American church—Where chairs and bedsteads come from—Pigs and pork—A peep into Kentucky—Popular opinions respecting slavery—The curse of America.
  8. The hickory stick—Chawing up ruins—A forest scene—A curious questioner —Hard and soft shells—Dangers of a ferry—The western prairies— Nocturnal detention—The Wild West and the Father of Rivers—Breakfast in a shed—What is an alligator?—Physiognomy, and its uses—The ladies’ parlour—A Chicago hotel, its inmates and its horrors—A water-drinking people—The Prairie City—Progress of the West.
  9. A vexatious incident—John Bull enraged—Woman’s rights—Alligators become hosses—A popular host—Military display—A mirth-provoking gun—Grave reminiscences—Attractions of the fair—Past and present—A floating palace—Black companions—A black baby—Externals of Buffalo—The flag of England.
  10. The Place of Council—Its progress and its people—English hearts— “Sebastopol is taken”—Squibs and crackers—A ship on her beam-ends— Selfishness—A mongrel city—A Scot—Constancy rewarded—Monetary difficulties—Detention on a bridge—A Canadian homestead—Life in the clearings—The bush on fire—A word on farming—The “bee” and its produce —Eccentricities of Mr. Haldimands—A ride on a troop-horse—Scotch patriotism—An English church—The servant nuisance—Richard Cobden.
  11. “I’ve seen nothing”—A disappointment—Incongruities—Hotel gaieties and “doing Niagara”—Irish drosky-drivers—“The Hell of Waters”—Beauties of Niagara—The picnic party—The White Canoe—A cold shower-bath—“The Thunder of Waters”—A magic word—“The Whirlpool”—Story of “Bloody Run”— Yankee opinions of English ladies—A metamorphosis—The nigger guide—A terrible situation—Termination Rock—Impressions of Niagara—Juvenile precocity—A midnight journey—Street adventures in Hamilton.
  12. A scene at starting—That dear little Harry—The old lady and the race— Running the Rapids—An aside—Snow and discomfort-A new country—An extemporised ball—Adventure with a madman—Shooting the cataract—First appearance of Montreal—Its characteristics—Quebec in a fog—“Muffins”— Quebec gaieties——The pestilence—Restlessness—St. Louis and St. Roch— The shady side—Dark dens—External characteristics—Lord Elgin—Mistaking a senator.
  13. The House of Commons—Canadian gallantry—The constitution—Mr. Hincks— The ex-rebel—Parties and leaders—A street-row—Repeated disappointments —The “habitans”—Their houses and their virtues—A stationary people— Progress and its effects—Montmorenci—The natural staircase—The Indian summer—Lorette—The old people—Beauties of Quebec—The _John Munn_—Fear and its consequences—A gloomy journey.
  14. Concluding remarks on Canada—Territory—Climate—Capabilities—Railways and canals—Advantages for emigrants—Notices of emigration—Government— The franchise—Revenue—Population—Religion—Education—The press— Literature—Observations in conclusion.
  15. Preliminary remarks on re-entering the States—Americanisms—A little slang—Liquoring up—Eccentricities in dress—A ‘cute chap down east— Conversation on eating—A Kentucky gal—Lake Champlain—Delaval’s—A noisy serenade—Albany—Beauties of the Hudson—The Empire City.
  16. Position of New York—Externals of the city—Conveyances— Maladministration—The stores—The hotels—Curiosities of the hospital— Ragged schools—The bad book—Monster schools—Amusements and oyster saloons—Monstrosities—A restaurant—Dwelling-houses—Equipages—Palaces —Dress—Figures—Manners—Education—Domestic habits—The ladies—The gentlemen—Society—Receptions—Anti–English feeling—Autographs—The “Buckram Englishman.”
  17. The cemetery—Its beauties—The “Potter’s Field”—The graves of children— Monumental eccentricities—Arrival of emigrants—Their reception—Poor dwellings—The dangerous class—The elections—The riots—Characteristics of the streets—Journey to Boston—The sights of Boston—Longfellow— Cambridge university.
  18. Origin of the Constitution—The Executive—Congress—Local Legislatures— The army and navy—Justice—Slavery—Political corruption—The foreign element—Absence of principle—Associations—The Know-nothings—The Press and its power—Religion—The Church—The Clergy.
  19. General remarks continued—The common schools—Their defect—Difficulties —Management of the schools—The free academy—Railways—Telegraphs— Poverty—Literature—Advantages for emigrants—Difficulties of emigrants— Peace or war—Concluding observations.
  20. The _America_—A gloomy departure—An ugly night—Morning at Halifax—Our new passengers—Babies—Captain Leitch—A day at sea—Clippers and steamers—A storm—An Atlantic moonlight—Unpleasant sensations—A gale— Inkermann—Conclusion.
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Last updated on Sat Mar 3 14:02:34 2007 for eBooks@Adelaide.